Cut Gem Ian Robinson - Bespoke Gems
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Padparadscha Sapphire Pair - 'Rexy Flexy'
Padparadscha Sapphire Pair - 'Rexy Flexy'

Rexy Flexy by Robert Dodd

An interesting ‘modern’ hexagon. Restrained in that it does not have an excess of facets resulting in a design that shows off the geometry of the cut. Interestingly there are two varients, left and right handed which works nicely with matched stones.

These two stones are cut in Left and Right versions. One is slightly lighter than the other despite being cut from the same piece of rough. I wouldn't like to desribe them as matched rather as a pair.

lab-grown Sapphire 7.24w 5.02d & 7.02w 4.82d
1.85 & 1.60ct

Tears of Elune- blue spinel
Tears of Elune- lab spinel

Tears of Elune, design by Arya Akhavan. Cut in vivid blue lab spinel -vid.

Nice: shard like narrow pear shape.

Somewhat time consuming and fiddly to cut taking me about twice as long as similar pear designs.

Lab grown spinel 14.4mmx9.5x6.1 deep
4.75ct

Blue Topaz - 'Thank you Bernar'd'
Blue Topaz - 'Thanks you Bernar'd

adapted from Thank You Bern'd by Marco Voltolini

A very unusual minimalist geometric design. A single bubble is carved into the back giving rise to interesting reflections. By virtue of its shape this would take some rather creative setting! The carving and shape were surprisingly time-consuming to cut & polish. I cut a similar stone for a museum display though given the time involved I am unlikely to cut another in the foreseeable.

Video

Topaz 8.2w 11.6h 2.8d
3.35ct

Blue Topaz - Star Of David #3
Blue Topaz - Star Of David

'Star of David #3', adapted from a design by Fred van Sant, 61 facets

Two tiers of facets on the crown are frosted to create a Star of David. Cut in light blue topaz to match the Israeli flag.

A popular cut but rather time-consuming.

Video

Natural Topaz (irradiated) 7.9w x 5.4d
2.65ct

Iconoclast - Green Sapphire
Iconoclast - Green Sapphire

Design No4 - Iconoclast -vid

Brilliant cut pavilion. Frosted cone crown with 4 large facets surrounding a square table.

Lab-grown green sapphire 8.6w x 5.9d
2.90ct

London Blue Topaz - Chrysanthemum Flower
Blue Topaz - Chrysanthemum

'Chrysanthemum', design by Quincy D Howell, 81 facets

This is becoming one of my more popular cuts, a very bright sparkly design.

Video

Blue Topaz "Chrysanthemum Flower" in sterling silver crown setting with rabbit ear bail. Setting entirely handformed from sheet silver.

Natural Topaz 4.65ct

Padparadscha Sapphire - Iconoclast Trefoil Cut
Sapphire - Trefoil Cut

My own trefoil design in a handmade sterling silver setting. Three large crown facets display a brilliant cut pavilion in a frosted surround.

Design and setting by Ian Robinson

Swiss Lab Grown Sapphire 4.05ct

Zircon Blue Spinel - 'Brilliant Pear'
Blue Spinel - Brilliant Pear Gemstone

Design by Jeff Graham -vid

lab-grown Spinel 5.90ct

Lithium Niobate - Ruination
Faceted Lithium Niobate

Ruination: design by Arya Akhavan.

Almost impossible to photograph accurately! The image appears to show scratching - there is none. I presume this is an artefact of the myriad of internal reflections. The stone looks white, almost milky in diffuse light but explodes into rainbows in direct light.

Lithium Niobate is an unusual material - this with an curious background. (LiNbO3) is an exotic ceramic used in the photonics industry. Entirely man-made it does not occur in nature.

Optically its refractive index is similar to that of diamond whilst its dispersion is over three times diamond's - hence the rainbows.

So very pretty and unusual.. what's the catch? Well it is soft with a moh hardness of about 5 which makes it difficult to polish and needs care in setting. I tried about 6 different lap/polish combinations before getting it right (0.25 micron diamond on tin alloy f.y.i.). It can be used in jewellery however one would not recommend it for a ring rather a setting which would offer some protection.

The provenance is interesting as I very strongly suspect this came from the stockrooms of a soviet-era defence research establishment.

Lab grown, photonics grade Lithium Niobate 3.45ct

Lilac Sapphire - Ruination
Lilac Sapphire - Ruination

Ruination: design by Arya Akhavan.

Lab grown spinel 3.5ct

Blue Spinel - Ruination
Blue Spinel - Ruination

Ruination: design by Arya Akhavan.

Lab grown spinel

Blue Spinel - Maltese Cross
Blue Spinel - Maltese Cross

Bright Square Maltese Cross: design by Charles Colvill, 48 facets.

Lab grown spinel 6.00ct

Bolivian Ametrine - Square Brilliant
Amertrine Square Brilliant

Classic Square Brilliant Cut

Came out rather nice Strictly approx 1/3rd of stone is amethyst with 2/3rds being citrine. Under normal lighting the internal reflections tend to make the effect more symmetrical.

Youtube

Natural Ametrine 4.30ct

Blue Spinel - Emergent Phenomenon
Spinel Trillion Cut

Emergent Phenomenon - design by Arya Akhavan

Emergent Phenomenon. This is one of the brightest designs I have ever seen. Arya is an accomplished designer and the myriad internal reflections make this one of my favourite cuts.

Lab grown Spinel 2.30ct

Ruby- Chrysanthemum Flower
Ruby - Flower Cut

'Chrysanthemum', design by Quincy D Howell, 81 facets

This is becoming one of my more popular cuts, a very bright sparkly design.

Lab grown ruby 2.90ct

Blue Spinel - 'Aperture Science'
Blue Spinel - 'Aperture Science'

Blue Spinel - 'Aperture Science'

Design by Arya Akhavan, 49 facets, A brilliant cut pavilion for sparkle and dispersion with a large table. This was inspired by a camera aperture? Certainly gives a very bright and rather appealing design especially in darker stones such as this.

Lab Grown Spinel 3.95ct

Natural Black Spinel - Lucifer Cut
Lucifer Black Spinel

Lucifer - design by Jack Rowland, cut in Indian black spinel

I do like spinel feeling that the surface lustre is superior to sapphire. Black spinel has to be polished with great care as the smallest scratch is apparent.

Was there any point cutting the pavilion (bottom) No - apart from a sense of completeness. In the video under bright light and high magnification it become apparent that the stone is actually a very deep red - to the naked eye appearing jet black. There is a very faint mark on the top facet - not an error but an internal fault in the stone. This is not visible to the naked eye, only under high magnification.

This was a bugger to photograph, a better view is the video below.

Youtube

Natural Spinel 3.45ct

Pink Sapphire - Triangle Custom Cut
Blue Topaz - Chrysanthemum

' Pink Sapphire - 'Triangle Custom Design '

This is a custom cut triangle. I was going for a dramatic simple design which could look good in a pendant.

Video

Lab Ruby 4.2ct

Blue Topaz Opposed Bars
Blue Topaz  - Opposed Bars

'Desoppo Bars' - design by Marco Voltolini

An interesting variant on the ‘opposed bars’ concept. Usually opposed bars design have the bars inverted (orthogonal) with respect this design.

Natural Topaz (irradiated) 2.45ct

Rose de France - Golden Poppy
Pink Sapphire - Chrysanthemum

'Golden Poppy', design by Marco Voltolini, 66 facets

This was a tricky stone to photograph. in part due to the subtle colouration though mostly due to my ineptitude at studio photography. Rose de France is a pale amethyst. The cut is unusual possessing 5 fold symmetry i.e. the stone is 5 sided.

Amethyst - Rose de France 2.5ct

Oxford Museum Stone #2
Carved Lemon Quartz

adapted from Thank You Bern'd by Marco Voltolini

This was cut in lemon quartz, likely natural (not irradiated) as from 1974 stock. Two bubbles are carved into the bottom giving rise to interesting reflections.

Cut for U.K. Facet Cutter's Guild display in Oxford University Museum of Natural History.

No retouching, colour modification or dust spot removal.

Video

Lemon Quartz ~12 x 7mm

Not for sale

Oxford Museum Stone #1
Rose De France

'Chrysanthemum', by Quincy D Howell, 81 facets

Cut in Rose De France (light Amethyst). Marking are internal to the stone due to reflections from a small veil - I think this adds interest :-)

Cut for U.K. Facet Cutter's Guild display in Oxford University Museum of Natural History.

Video

Rose De France ~12.1 x 7.9mm
6.15ct

Not for sale

Bolivian Ametrine 'Emerald' Cut
Ametrine Emerald Cut

'Gram Emerald', adapted from a design by Jeff Graham

Emerald Cuts are surprisingly tricky, parallel lines show the slightest asymmetry.

Bolivian Ametrine 2.90ct

Pink Sapphire - Chrysanthemum
Pink Sapphire - Chrysanthemum

'Chrysanthemum', adapted from a design by Quincy D Howell, 81 facets

Sometimes things just go so well. This cutting was entirely problem free and worked out rather well I feel. The light pink gives a subdued subtle effect in what is a large stone.

Video

Swiss Lab Grown Sapphire 6.15ct

Moss Tourmaline - Smithsonian Bar
Moss Tourmaline - Smithsonian Bar

'Smithsonian Bar', design by Jeff Graham

Video

Natural Tourmaline 4.4ct

Blue Sapphire - Star Of David #2
Sapphire Star of David

'Star of David #2', adapted from a design by Fred van Sant, 61 facets

Two tiers of facets on the crown are frosted to create a Star of David. Finished in blue sapphire to match the Israeli flag.

At high magnification a slight asymmetry in the shape of the table is apparent though I cannot discern this with the naked eye.

Video

Swiss Lab Grown Sapphire 2.30ct

White Sapphire - 'Star Of David #1'
Sapphire star of david

Design by Fred Van Sant, 67 facets

Two tiers of facets on the crown are frosted to create a Star of David effect.

Cut in white sapphire - a very bright sparkly stone.

The final high polish is achieved with 0.25 micron diamond polish on a ceramic lap for extra flatness and crisper facet edges. This followed a deep pre-polish at 3 micron on a Batt lap taking over 11 hours to cut - aligning the facets is a bugger!.

Video

Swiss Lab Grown Sapphire 1.80ct

Hot Pink Sapphire- Hanami - 花見
Hot Pink Sapphire- Hanami - 花見
Lab grown Sapphire 2.40ct

Green Sapphire- Desoppo Bars
Green Sapphire- Desoppo Bars
Lab grown Sapphire 3.40ct

Blue Sapphire- Iconoclast
Blue Sapphire- Iconoclast
Lab grown Sapphire 2.10ct

Blue Spinel- Trottola
Blue Spinel- Trottola
Spinel 4.85ct

Amethyst Tessellation 36
Tessellation 36
Natural Amethyst 3.40ct

Emergent Phenomenon - Pink Sapphire
Emergent Phenomenon - Sapphire Gem
Lab Sapphire 2.70ct

Lucifer - Ruby
Lucifer - Ruby Gem
Lab Ruby 3.15ct

Sapphire - Desoppo Bars
Desoppo Bars
Lab Sapphire 5.15ct

Ruby - Sweetheart
Ruby - Sweetheart
Natural Amethyst 4.75ct

Citrine Hanami - 花見
Hanami 花見
Natural Amethyst 1.65ct

Amethyst - Daffodil
Amethyst - Cube Illusion
Natural Amethyst 2.60ct

Amethyst - Cube Illusion
Amethyst - Cube Illusion
Natural Amethyst 1.80ct

Padparadscha Sapphire - Alien Outpost
Padparadscha Sapphire - Alien Outpost
Lab grown sapphire